Mt Healy overlook trail

We took a Sunday hike on the Mt Healy overlook trail in Denali National Park.

We were already in the Denali Park area, and wanted to do something a little, but not too strenuous, with options to high tail it back to shelter if showers came up. The up and back Mt Healy overlook trail seemed about right. 

The Perfect Boat

The wrong time.

July 29, 2014

While slowly coming to the conclusion that a Freedom 38 was the not the perfect boat for our cruising plans, and because we just like looking at boats, while in the Pacific Northwest in July we looked at a couple of boats, some in Victoria, none of which really picqued our interest. We arranged to look at a Sceptre 41 at Elliott Bay Marina, we had purchased Cirrus through Paul at EB in 1997, and had a really good feeling about him as a person and a broker. When we sold Cirrus, we had cut him out of a brokerage fee -- an aggressive broker had brought a buyer to the dock in San Diego as we arrived from La Paz. I hadn't had time to rinse the Baja Bash salt crust off the deck or rigging before a "take-it-or-leave-it" attractive purchase aggreement was profered -- completely leaving Paul's brokerage out of the deal. We were desperate to sell Cirrus so what could I do? I digress...so when I contacted Elliott Bay to ask about seeing this Sceptre 41, Solar Wind, Paul remembered us, but without any mention of being cut-out of the brokerage fee, but he remembered the search for and discovery of Cirrus and the part that he played in enabling our three-year family ownership and adventure on her.

We arranged to view Solar Wind during a six hour layover In Seattle between arriving on the Victoria Clipper and flying back home out of SeaTac. What could go wrong with that plan? I had worked out the schedule just right with transit on light rail, and we had plenty of time...we didn't count on baggage taking so long to transfer off the Clipper, so instead of the bus and walk, we grabbed a cab to Elliott Bay Marina. We met with Paul and the new owners of the EB brokerage, a really nice retired couple that had been former customers of Paul. Paul had to attend a sale closure, so the husband took us down to Solar Wind, the boat showed well, despite the huge complex radar arch on the stern that supported radar, antenaes, multiple solar panels, wind generator, and a slick gantry style dinghy davit.

Inside the interior was very well maintained and outfitted with all the great electronics, watermaker, and heating system that one could want. The details even came down to an eye dropper, calibrated to the exact amount of bleach to add to each water tank, having a special storage place in the galley. The deck gear was perfect, all lines led to the cockpit, great furling gear, carbon-fiber retractable reaching pole, good ground tackle, life raft, etc. 

In short, Solar Wind was ready to go, and the owner had spared no expense or attention to detail. Unfortunately we couldn't spend much time on her because we had a train and plane to catch.

I was talked out of the transit system to get to the light rail, so we tried calling a cab. What we didn't count on was that it was Friday afternoon, and Fleet Week was just starting... Three were thousands of sailors disembarking for shore leave ona Friday night from all the ships that were moored and anchored in Elliott Bay; there was not a cab to be had, in fact we could not even get a cab company to answer the phone.

So the brokerage wife said that she would take us to the light rail station, she was not sure about where the light rail station is, so I put my trust in Google maps...long story short we spent an hour and a half lost in northern downtown Seattle traffic going less than four miles, eventually thanks to the broker wife's navigation, we got to the light rail station just in time to catch a rush hour train to SeaTac. Little did we know, but added to the Friday afternoon rush hour there was a Beyoncé (or someone like that) concert at the stadium that evening, so the train was as packed as I've ever seen a commuter train and it was running late. We rushed to the ticket counter and got checked I. With 90 seconds to spare before the flight was closed out. Phew.

Well, that's way too much information, but the point is, we started to like the Sceptre 41 with it's more modern hull, but still skeg-hung rudder, swim platform and walk through transom, pilot house/deck salon with the world in view from the galley, nav station, and salon, it began to seem like a good boat for our purposes. Unfortunately, the price for Solar Wind is 60 percent more than what I thought we should spend on a boat and more than three times our easily fungible and available assets, plus we still have a year of work ahead of us before we can consider leaving our jobs. We chose to wait, watch, and hope that the market was still stagnant.

The hunt for Das Boot

Let it begin, in earnest anyway! Ever since we sold Cirrus in May 2000 I've been obsessed with boats, some more than others. In 2006, we actually had an offer ready to go on a very affodable San Juan 28 in Seward, as a Prince William Sound escape -- but work had just changed. Subsequently, during the last 8 years my summers have been occupied by beating on rocks and helping to map Alaska's geology and mineral potential. The boat would have mouldered in the snow, glacial silt, and transient moorage in Valdez. In this case hindsight caught up just in time.

Now, however, retirement is looming; over the horizon we can see the beacon's flash, and the Pavlovian urge has grown stronger than ever. From 2012 until just a month ago, I was convinced that a Freedom 38 was the perfect boat for our cruising plans for the west coast of North America. 

In particular I had fixated on one particularly well maintained, well sailed, and very loved hull. It was said to have been the last hull of the model built by Tillotson-Pearson. The owners and I started communicating and we had a phone call or two and many email/blog chats. 

The owners ended up passing Das boot on to their son and his family; who can argue with that? Then the owner went out and bought a new smaller racier model...well, who could argue with that? All in all a very happy ending! Except we are boat less...

I am still a fan of the owner's blog posts and stories of coastal club racing in Southern California -- perhaps we'll have chance to meet face to face soon!

As a post script, Madame Commodore and M looked at another hull of the Freedom 38 model, there were some particular deficiencies to the particular hull, and in general we started to come to our senses that the North Pacific and the log and ice strewn waters of coastal Alaska might not be the best place for a high-aspect fin keel and spade rudder.

The holiday letter meets the 21st Century

Over the last 31 years together, we have developed an extended family in Fairbanks; it is delightful to come together with many generations around the table at the holidays. We are part of a big circle.  And we are always delighted when MELT are together – wherever we are. We were together many places this past year.

Last Christmas we celebrated the holiday with Tyler and Michael on the shore of Tomales Bay CA, enjoying sunshine, sounds and smells of the sea, and family spirit; then we went off to Yosemite for some warm-winter hiking. New Year’s Eve found us in Bellingham and Tacoma with friends and Larry’s sister Janet and her husband Larry. Six months later we were all together again to celebrate Michael’s graduation from Oregon State University. In July E & L joined family to commemorate Janet and Larry’s 50^th wedding anniversary, then snuck off for a few days alone in Victoria, BC. We squeezed in a few Alaska adventures this summer. We spent a day fishing for halibut outside of Seward. Along the way, we had a narrow miss with a mama moose and her new calf in the woods near Hatcher Pass. We love weekend trips to day-hike in Denali National Park and raft the Nenana River, the only white water within hours of Fairbanks.

Tyler joined us and a few friends on a 4-day raft and kayak trip on Alaska’s Tazlina River in August; we had a great time appreciating campfire camaraderie, solitude and autumn beauty along the river. Tyler is currently taking advantage of the mobility of a web-programmer, being able to run projects and servers from any network connection in the world. After spending a couple of years settled in Oakland he hit the road this fall and has traveled between Fairbanks, Portland and St Louis, carrying his office in his backpack.

Tyler and Michael enjoyed 2 weeks of Alaska in July; Elizabeth had a great time with them but Larry was in the field! Michael then tacked on a wilderness adventure on the Tatshenshini River. In August, Michael began work with Glosten Associates [a naval architecture firm] in Seattle. He and doggie Max found a home with a yard and nice human and canine roommates. Michael continues to kayak often with his girlfriend Anna and Corvallis friends, and is broadening his circle to include local Seattle boaters and rivers.

Elizabeth is transitioning to a new grant project for her last 9 months of employment at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, and is reducing her work schedule to part time until retirement on September 1^st. She is still involved in several non-profit organizations, but is slowly removing herself from leadership roles. She spent time with family and friends in the Lower 48 this spring and fall, and is looking forward to more time for that.

Meanwhile Larry managed to shed the yoke of ski patrol leadership, just as he was promoted to Mineral Resources Section Chief in the Alaska geological survey. The new position is both taxing and engaging, and requires a lot of travel, schmoozing and public speaking. He still enjoys fieldwork on geologic mapping projects; last summer he was in the Talkeetna Mountains with challenging weather, rocks, and terrain. However, the call of the sea is strong… he will probably follow Elizabeth’s retirement by a few months.

The search for our next sailboat is picking up momentum. We have made first-pass inspections on several boats, eliminating a few from Larry’s nautical-obsession list. We are looking forward to returning to the cruising lifestyle upon retirement. We are grateful for health, comfort, family and friends – we wish the same for you and your family. With the coming Solstice and the renewal of light we wish you, your friends, family and community all the best for the coming year.

Submitted with love and fondness -- L & E

Rhubarb-raspberry coffee cake for the secret society

It's my turn to provide nutrition for a secret society and the manager of the household provisions commanded "Empty the freezer!". So this is what we ended up with for the secret society, will they approve?

Credit goes to the original "Bun on the Run" sisters, but also to the famous night baker and the new Bun Runner for the idea to press the streusel into the cake before baking. We'll see if it lasts till morning.

Another morning like this...

Today I started back in the regular routine of bicycle commuting. Either through good planning or by luck, it's only five miles by road from home to office, short sweet exercise, a psychological air-lock between home and work. Even better though, there are seemingly infinite options to stay off the road by taking an anastomosing network of ad hoc and official trails of all sorts. Today the sunrise at a little duck pond caught my eye. 

Another cure for the terminal cynic.

Mornings like these...

... Remind me why I live and work in in Alaska. Our crew has been fortunate to have summer return to the western Alaska Range for the last few days. So far our mapping project has gone well, we are having healthy geologic debates and making substantial changes to the existing geological map of the Upper Styx River area. My tolerance and sense of balance for steep terrain  is coming back, a little. How can one help but enjoy ones self here.

Puntilla Lake -- Rainy Pass Lodge

Scenic Puntilla Lake

It all seems like an idyllic place, but the 24 hours preceding 9 am this morning the ceiling was no more than 200 feet above the lake and frequently the Super Cub would not have been distinguishable. Now, however, this is a little piece of heaven.

End of a lovely trip

Waiting at Mount Wright for the tour boat to pick us up, we listen to the sound of a humpback whale exhale as it paces back and forth in the mouth of Muir Inlet.

After three glorious days, this morning we woke to the sound of rain...if we had to pack camp in the rain, at least it was the last morning. Now the clouds have cleared and it is glorious weather again. We've been fortunate with this 10 day stretch of unusual weather.

There are more photos here

June 17 -- Mt Wright

Last night in paradise

Our camp at the north end of Garforth Island is different than all the others, a truly sandy beach and the water is crystal clear. It was another hot day but the morning respite was a good wind blowing down Muir Inlet. The wind, of course started up as we were 1/4 of the way across the inlet back to the east side. Between the north wind and the strong ebb we made great time. We saw two northbound kayakers resting at Muir Point waiting for the wind to die and the tide to change. We were in our camp by early afternoon and lazed around, strolling the beaches, and trying to stay cool. There are a lot of nesting oyster catchers here, they come charging out of the grass with all sorts of shrill calls and theatrics. This evening while having our dinner a half dozen of the crazy birds came out of the wood work and  noisily chased each other around the island. Must have been the social hour.

Tomorrow we have an early rise and a short paddle across the channel to Mt Wright to meet the tour boat for our pick up. It's almost exactly 31 years since E & I took our first romantic overnight canoe trip  that sealed our life together, this trip has sealed us together even more!

June 16 Garforth Island

McBride Inlet -- Hunter Cove

We awoke to a chilly morning with the booming sound of McBride Glacier calving new bergs to add to the morning ebb procession. We had a great morning ride on the ebb along the west side of Muir Inlet, but as the day turned to afternoon the heat from the sun became overwhelming, there was a nice breeze to gusty winds blowing out of Wachusett Inlet, but that did little to temper the sun. Imagine Sea of Cortez with glaciated mountains. It took us a while to find a suitable campsite without signs of bear activity, finally picking a little gravel shelf with enough room for a bear to pass without stepping on our tent. We had true sea-side dining at high tide.

We are falling asleep to the sound of forest song birds and sea birds all at the same time.

June 15

McBride Inlet

We made it to the mouth of McBride Inlet just about one hour before high tide. As the ebb started, a stately parade of bergs flowed out into Muir Inlet, crunching, grinding, and booming their escape out to sea.

We had had a glorious sunny paddle northward past Goose Cove and The Nunatak after waking up several times during the night to the sound of exhaling porpoise.

E and I are really enjoying our company traveling together through this magnificent place!

June 14

Glacier Bay -- Day 1

Mount Wright to north of Klotz Hills.

Two humans alone in the wilderness besieged by millions of black flies and mosquitoes...only a thin layer of mesh is protecting us from complete exsanguination. 

Seemingly alone in Muir inlet we paddled north on the flood tide and following winds. Along the way we saw mountain goat nannies and kids, a black bear, Dall  harbor porpoise, loons, murelets, oyster catchers, arctic terns, etc. Our first choices for campsites turned out to be nest sites for terns and gulls. The campsite we ended up with has a bear highway running through the prime tent site on the beach ridge, so we cooked on the beach and camped in a little alcove in the woods well off the beach and bear trail.

After a delicious meal we nestle in our tent enjoying each others companionship. 

June 13

Goin' Rogue!

The Corvallis Cliff Canoers (CCC) organized a float on the Rogue River from Almeda Campground to Foster Bar for parents, family and friends. It was a great three day trip for 25 people and two yellow labs. We had 4 oar rafts, 2 cats, 1 paddle raft, 3 kayaks, and two IKs.
First of all, the best part of the trip was the people and the organizational effort it took to keep everyone safe, well-fed, and having a good time. It was a delight to spend quality time with the entire four MELT family together and to get to know the boaters of the CCC that M spends so much time with. We had a great time making connections with all the family and friends, and look forward to more trips in the future.
The second best part of the trip was the Rogue itself; in my limited experience on rivers this is one of the more scenic, geologically interesting, and white-water fun rivers I've floated. There were few stretches without at least one upper class II to III rapid every mile or less. The flow was right around 3200 cfs and water temperatures were in the low 60s F. E rode out Rainie Falls in the raft captained by A while T had a perfect line in the IK with the inevitable endo and exit out the bottom of the hole.
We had two really nice camps, one at the Meadows just below Horseshoe Bend, and another at Camp Tacoma. Food,drink, and campfire merriment were fantastic. The sleeping to the sound of the river, crickets, and wild turkeys was delicious.See more photos here: Rogue photos

May Day!

Happy spring!? Snow yesterday (April 30) and on May Day. I love snow and skiing, but this is a little on the crazy side. E and I leave tonight to visit the Northwest to experience real spring. More later.

The same old grind

... But how lovely it is!
The first bike commute in ages! Almost time to stow the lights until next September because the rosy glow of dawn is so gorgeous. During the westward ride home the late afternoon sun was blinding.
I may be a slug on two wheels, but I love the crunchy sound as the tires roll and bite the crisply packed trails. I also love play of the long shadows cast by the low angled sun through the Boreal forest.

Arrivedercci Italia

Our last day it was blowing a small gale and raining buckets. The south Asian umbrella and plastic poncho hawkers were making a fortune. We borrowed some umbrellas from the B&B and walked/ran to the Church of San Clemente, a 15th century church, that although small, by roman standards, was beautiful in its own right. But it's what is hidden underneath was fascinating, excavations in the 1870s revealed a 4th century church that had been partially raised to build the present day church. Some of the frescoes, inlaid marble floor, and marble columns were still intact. New walls and vaulted ceilings had been built to to support the structure above. It was clear that the walls were built from rubble of the old; there were fragments of intricately carved marble in the rough masonry.
Then in the next level down there were the remains of pre-Christian roman buildings including a Mithrian cult meeting place and a house with running water either from a spring or an aqueduct. It was the first place this trip that the layers of Ancient Rome and the transition from the pantheistic empire through the Holy Roman Empire, the fall, and then the Renaissance to the modern Rome was so clear.
After a wonderful lunch at what was obviously a very popular local spot we retrieved our bags and jumped on the Leonardo Express to our sleep and fly hotel in Fiumincino, closing the circle.
The last Italian experience was L's dive into Grappa as an aperitif...although quite interesting the one small glass left me feeling a little rough at our 0400 wake-up to catch our flight.

Ci vediamo dopo...

Vatican

Our goal for the day was to visit the Museum of the Vatican and the Sistine chapel. I can't say much more then everything exceeded our expectations... The collections of art from ancient to the Renaissance, the scale and grandeur of it all is beyond belief. E and I are each of two minds when we visit cathedrals and other sites, and now here at the center of the Catholic world... I'll stop my heathen rant now, before I forget the art and architecture on display at the Vatican is simply magnificent. Wouldn't we all want a Raphael or a Michelangelo fresco in our study?
We did find a bathtub we would like to get on loan from the new pope!
After the museum we went out to Piazza San Pietro for a picnic lunch at the foot of the massive colonnade ringing the piazza. We watched the ebb and fill of the equally massive line waiting to get into the basilica. We chose to forgo the line and just enjoy the architecture from the outside.

Ancient Rome

We visited a different Rome today, the one of Julius Caesar to Constantine. We stood on the spot where Julius had the occasion to say "e tu Brutus?". At another point we stood in the remains of the immense cathedral that was built by Constantine upon his victorious return after finding an opportune time to convert from persecutor of Christians to being the first Pope.
Then we marched down the main roman street of the forum between two triumphal arches and found the Temple of Vesta where virgins (vestal, of course) kept the symbolic flames burning. Right next door was the palace of the vestal virgins, which was quite luxurious and had a fine central courtyard line with statues of V.V. Maximi of the past to inspire residents of the palace that wealth and fame awaited awaited them if they stayed virgins until their 36th birthday.
We wandered around the ruins of the forum some more and then had our picnic among the opulence of Palatine Hill where the emperors lived, looking down on the mere mortals below.
After lunch we went to the Coliseum. Lots of crowds, but an impressive place, we could feel the ghosts of the gladiators, slaves, Christians, lions, etc who were killed here solely for spectacle and pleasure of the more fortunate residents of Rome. At least in our culture we allow the gladiators in the football stadiums to live until they die a slow death of dementia from repeated brain trauma.
So with that in mind we decided to feed the lions in our stomachs...

All roads lead to Rome

...as did ours. Our first day in Rome we wandered from our lodging near the heart of Ancient Rome to the Pantheon. The Pantheon is a 2000 year old concrete dome of immense proportions that was originally a place of celebration of the pantheon of Roman gods, subsequently looted and then adopted and redecorated by various popes. It is now a church and of the burial place of Raphael and two Italian kings.
We had a glass of wine at one of the cafes around the piazza at in front of the Pantheon and watched the throngs of tourists from all corners of the world. Then we went to the Trevi Fountain which was more thronged and then to the Spanish Steps for he sunset throngs.
It seems everyone's road leads to Rome!